Dating a hasselblad cf lens

In 2005, Kyocera announced that it would no longer produce Contax cameras. Made between 19, the original Contax, known as Contax I after later models were introduced, was markedly different from the corresponding Leica.While the firm of Ernst Leitz of Wetzlar established the 24 mm × 36 mm negative format on perforated 35 mm movie film as a viable photographic system, Zeiss Ikon of Dresden decided to produce a competitor designed to be superior in every way. Using a die-cast alloy body it housed a vertically travelling metal focal-plane shutter reminiscent of the one used in Contessa-Nettel cameras, made out of interlocking blackened brass slats somewhat like a roll-up garage door.This is nitpicky, since they are all great cameras, but the late SWC/M with the bubble level still on the body and newer shutter design are the Goldilocks to me.

The name Contax was chosen after a poll among Zeiss employees. This complex shutter became the characteristic of the Contax camera and its Super-Nettel derivative.

By contrast, the competitive Leica followed the established design of using rubberized fabric shutter curtains wound around rollers, moving horizontally.

(I have a Leica M and a 21mm Zeiss Biogon 2.8 and use it with success using it this way but want the larger negative of the SWC) Are there any other effective techniques in focusing that could be used on a potentially moving target? Stopped down the DOF is so great you won't have to worry and the DOF indicator is a very good guide to set focus for any given aperture.

I would suggest learning to shoot from the hip as I often do.

A friend of mine has done a lot of street shooting with a Canon 5D and a Zeiss manual focus 50mm lens wide open and all shot from the hip Hong Kong Street.

This is a longer lens than your SWC and and via the technique he employs it should suggest that street shooting with the Hassy should not be too difficult - its all about practiceagree with x-ray and Craig The Hyper focal is a good and fast way for scale focus type cameras to get picture in focus.Once you train yourself to judge the distance and the frame reach, it becomes quite natural.I suggest you load up on TX400, set it at ISO 800 and develop in Diafine - you will gain a couple of stops tolerance in each direction.For those who use this camera shooting "street" style, that is, of people that may be moving shortly, how does one frame and focus?I am thinking of getting one and plan on using the hyper-focal technique at the smallest aperture possible for the given situation to maximize depth of field. Hyper-focal is about it unless you use a ground glass back which doesn't work well for moving subjects.Some of the late SWC/M and the 903s have a plastic finder with a bubble level built into it.


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